Elsa Schiaparelli was a true pioneer in blending fashion and art, so it felt entirely fitting that her namesake house presented its spring collection at the Pompidou Center which is currently closed for renovations.
From the rooftop of the museum, with sweeping views across Paris from the Sacré-Coeur to the Eiffel Tower, guests like Kylie Jenner, Rosalía and FKA Twigs gathered for the show. The space had recently hosted an exhibition dedicated to Constantin Brâncuși, whose work served as the starting point for creative director Daniel Roseberry’s latest collection.
Brâncuși’s modernist purity – his clean lines and essential palette – echoed throughout Roseberry’s designs. Tailored pieces were streamlined but animated with unexpected details: pebble-shaped pockets, curved waistlines and oversized cutouts that pierced everything from leather shirts to knit tube dresses. Hammered frills added texture to cropped tops paired with fluid cream trousers.
This season, Roseberry showed uncharacteristic restraint. The designer is beloved by celebrities for his audacious, viral creations toned down his trademark gold hardware, limiting it to a few nose jewels and delicate chain straps on his lustrous, 1930s-inspired evening gowns. Their glossy satin panels floated over sheer bases, exuding quiet opulence.
„I wanted to create extreme wearability without losing the extreme drama that defines Schiaparelli”, Roseberry said after the show. To achieve that, he stripped away rigid corsetry, allowing fabrics to drape naturally. „It was revelatory to work with bias-cut gowns and let the body define the silhouette”, he explained. „This was about returning to the roots. of the house.”
As Schiaparelli prepares for a major exhibition at Victoria & Albert Museum in London next year, Roseberry paid homage to one of the brand’s most iconic creations: the 1938 Tears dress, designed with Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí. Its trompe-l’œil print – mimicking torn flesh – was reimagined in three dimensions through panels of flayed silk crepe.
Like Schiaparelli herself, Roseberry embraces provocation. Some of his designs were barely there, like the black negligee worn by Kendall Jenner to close the show. Whether minimal or extravagant, the Schiaparelli woman always commands attention.
Source: Schiaparelli PR
